Manage Your Weeds The Professional Method

A thick lawn is your best defense.

Weeds are opportunists. They will find bare spots or places where your grass is weak, and they’ll exploit them to their advantage.

Perennial weeds (weeds that grow off their roots every year) can distribute and make a lawn unsightly. Annual weeds (weeds that die at the end of the season and reseed the next year) can leave bare spots that are vulnerable to runoff.

No matter what weeds you have, the first line of defense is precautionary practices. Try these options to access the root of the problem first, just before resorting to herbicides.

Prevention practices

Mow high. Do not mow lawn shorter than recommended for the types you grow. Mowing at a few inches or higher helps grass color out weeds and encourages a thicker, more competitive turf. Find other sections of this site to make sure that you are using the right grass species, fertilizing and watering correctly, and generally doing all you can to encourage healthful grass.

Reduce compaction. Pay special attention to heavily used areas and sections next to pavement. Weeds can gain a foothold in these places and spread to the rest of the lawn if it is weak.

Repair bare areas by raking in seed at the begining of spring so that the new grass may compete with the weeds that are certain to come up. This can be tricky though. If you seed, you can’t use traditional pre-emergent crabgrass products because these will keep your own grass seed from germinating similar to the crabgrass seeds.

There are however a few products and strategies to avoid this situation and keep the spring crabgrass germination

In the event that lawn is thin, fertilize this properly with quality fertilizers to enhance density.

Let the weeds be your guide. If weeds dominate a place, it’s likely that there is something wrong with either the growing circumstances or your lawn practices. Dense stands of prostrate knotweed really are a good sign of soil compaction. Don’t just pull out the weeds. Relieve the compaction. Violets (Viola spp. ) are a good sign of low light levels. One solution might be to seed shade-tolerant fine fescues or new tone and drought tolerant hybrid bluegrasses.

If you use herbicides…

o Use the correct product at the right time. Adhere to label directions and try to spot treat areas with the weeds only utilizing the right liquid concentrate weed control. The best and most economical way is within a pump sprayer. You usually blend a very small amount with water and spray. This saves lots with time.

o Use granular weed control products only on lawns with lots of weeds throughout. Some products are usually better than others for certain types of weeds. Applying at the right time, plus allowing the weeds to take in the weed control is critical. Usually this really is done while the grass is wet or damp to help the granules stick to the weed. 24-48 hours without having rainfall is best.

o To avoid volatilization and drift, which release insect sprays into the air, do not spray whenever temperatures are high or it is windy.

o To help prevent polluted runoff, do not apply pesticides whenever heavy rains are expected or the floor is already saturated or frozen. Additionally, you will get a better result.

o Sprayers should be triple rinsed with an apply tank cleaning solution to avoid recurring left over when you use the sprayer to get other products.

The types of bud control products include:

Pre-emergent herbicides:

o Most common for crabgrass.

um Applied to soil before weeds are expected.

o Have low solubility and bind to organic matter.

Postemergence herbicides:

o Most common for perennial broadleaf weeds.

o Applied right after weeds have emerged and are positively growing.

o Avoid application just before irrigation or rain.

o Eliminate or injure all plants they come in contact with.

o Used to kill plant life before reseeding.

Annual grassy weeds.

Crabgrass is one of the most common grass marijuana problems. It is a warm-season annuals. These people thrive when temperatures are popular and cool-season lawn grasses are usually least competitive. Still, they have trouble invading a healthy lawn.

One location where they can more easily gain a foothold is along paved areas where high temperatures can damage cool-season grasses – along the edges of pavements, sidewalks and patios, for instance. Soil temperatures are usually warmer in these areas and crabgrass germinates earlier. These are also harder to get granular apps on as you are spreading your item in a spreader.

Where hostile problems exist for lawn grasses, you are able to spot treat for crabgrass with pre-emergence herbicides. These herbicides work on the seeds as they germinate. As they are ineffective on ungerminated seeds or established plants, timing is critical.

Using a strategy of spraying just the sides of the driveway or sidewalk regarding 1-2 ft wide, will keep crab grass pressures down considerably. The benefit is great, it doesn’t cost much, and you are just treating a small area along the edges where crabgrass pressures are finest.

Optimum timing for pre-emergent treatment of crabgrass is about the time that forsythia blooms wane, when the soil heat range is between 59 F and 65 F.

As mentioned earlier, Pre-emergent herbicides do not distinguish between weed seeds and grass seeds. So you defintely won’t be able to replant grass where an individual has applied them for 2 to 6 months. Two products do exist to allow you to seeds in spring and control crabgrass. Professionals use them and you can too.

The first product is called Siduron. It is usually simplest to apply this as a granular over the seeded area at the time of seeding. It won’t inhibit new grass seed from germinating while controlling crabgrass. Siduron is a little pricey, but their aren’t exactly many alternatives.

The second product is Drive DF. It is a dry flowable item that you mix in water and squirt before you seed an area. It works great in small seeded areas because you can spray it where you wish to seed. You use only about 1/3 of an ounce per gallon of water. The best part: It is also a post-emergent crab grass spray too. You can use it to spray existing crabgrass plants when some emerge anywhere else in your lawn. It also controls a few broadleaf weeds like clover too. It can be bought in Drive 1# containers for a little more than 100 dollars (professional s use cases of this size). It can also be purchased in Drive 1 . 5 oz bottles for about 20 dollars. This size will make 5 gallons of crabgrass pre-emergent intended for seeded areas or crabgrass fantastic for mature crabgrass plants.

As stated above, once crabgrass emerges, you are able to apply postemergent herbicides, usually from early June through mid-July. Several different herbicides are on the market that can destroy plants that have not yet tillered. Drive DF is a good one. Acclaim Extra is another good product. Acclaim Extra is only a post-emergent crab grass control. It is a liquid you blend water and spray on crabgrass. It comes in large size concentrate, but is also sold in Acclaim pint size containers. An average rate is about ½ oz per 1000 sq ft or gallon of water. This will give you 16 gallons or 16, 000 sq ft of crab grass killer.

Spot treating with non-selective herbicides such as Round-up can destroy the plants and reduce their contribution to next year’s seedbank. But you must use absolute caution plus care not to accidentally spray and kill other plants nearby. Gather will also kill any grass it touches and leave dead places throughout the lawn. Drive DF plus Acclaim Extra will not do this.

Perennial broadleaf weeds

Unlike annual lawn weeds, herbicides for broadleaf perennial weeds are usually applied post-emergence. The advantage of post-emergent control is that you can see the number of weeds you have before you decide whether or not to spray. If you just have some, pulling them by hand might be your best option. If you don’t have to spray, then don’t.

Most broadleaf perennials – such as dandelions — have their finest visual impact in spring. Yet late summer to mid-fall is a good time to control them with herbicides. Because the weather cools, these weeds start storing food produced in their leave in their roots, just like cool-season lawn grasses. If you apply herbicides at the moment, it will be transported along with the food and appears a better chance of killing to root.

When applied in spring, you can still get good results with quality weed control products. Because the weed is hungry and growing, it will take the weed control in and become effective at this time too. You can squirt them with the quality weed control items, or use granular weed settings in a spreader. Spraying is more affordable and you get the product right where you want it. Granular products are more suited to large areas filled with weeds to obtain a knockdown. Avoid rainfall for 24-48 hours. This gives the weed control time to work
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